Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.